Sunday, July 15, 2012

Bustier Dress - Papercut Patterns

Bustier Dress - Papercut Patterns


This week I sewed up the Bustier Dress by Papercut Patterns. It is described as having a fitted bodice on a gathered skirt with a fitted hemline. I chose to make mine less fitted as I wanted an easy-to-wear, cool, everyday dress, rather than something more structured.

My pattern for this dress was taken from an already altered pattern of my sister's. I than had to alter it quite a bit to fit me. Given this, I can't really accurately comment on the alterations I have made. What I can say for sure though is that I did shorten the bodice significantly. I also added more width to the skirt to create a less-fitted skirt.

Rather than use the Bustier Dress pattern for the bodice back and skirt back, I used my Vogue 8184 toile instead. This is a very similar pattern with a very similar silhouette. Using my toile, with all the existing alterations, made much more sense. For this reason, I also shifted the zipper from the sideseam to the CB. This is my preferred location anyway. 

I would prefer it if the straps were slightly longer. I accidently cut them off during a lapse in concentration induced by the demands of a three-year-old. Don't you hate that? I think I'll just live with it this time around. I don't actually have enough fabric leftover to recut the straps so I would have to add a dodgy seam if I was really determined. 

I made up the dress using a Japanese cotton lawn I bought from Spotlight some time last year. The piping is made used sage-coloured broadcloth, also from Spotlight. I always use rats tail ribbon or China cord inside my piping. This was a trick taught to me by my sewing teacher. It is wonderful to use and creates much nicer piping than standard cord I think. It is readily available from Spotlight and other craft stores. In fact, it is also often in the ribbon section of newsagencies. So next time you need to make piping, give it a whirl. 

So what do you think of the length? Too short? I have left quite a deep hemline so I can lengthen it if needed.

To belt or not to belt? Either? 

 Worn this afternoon out to drinks by a windy, windy beach.
Styled with denim jacket, silk/felt scarf and nude flats.

 Back view - As you can see I added piping at the back/side back seams.

 Side view

Overall, I'm quite happy with the dress. It's not really the best colour for me, but I thought the fabric was soooo pretty. I'll just have to be sure to wear accessories that break up the colour a bit. I have a really groovy red necklace that looks great with it. I didn't wear it in these photos though as I wanted to showcase the bustier lines.

17 comments:

  1. I like it with no belt and the length is perfect! I love the green piping too - it is a great colour combo with that very pretty fabric

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  2. I like it without the belt. The piping really makes the seamlines pop! Does it match your new teal linen jacket? The colour of the dress would probably look better if you weren't standing in front of a brick wall in similar colours. This will be a great dress for summer

    PS I need you to do a tutorial on using that thingy for invisible zips as I forget how you showed me.

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  3. Love it! Definitely no belt. I really like the piping and the length is perfect.

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  4. Ah I love seeing your summery creations while we're freezing away down south! It's gorgeous. The floral and the piping is awesome - could've even gone more piping at the waist?
    Anyway I think the length is perfect and it looks great with the denim jacket.

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    1. Great dress. I love the colours on you. I also make my piping with rats tail ribbon as it's much smoother. I prefer your dress without the belt and the length appears fine. Though I understand your concern with kiddos to chase after.

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  5. I think the colour is very attractive on you. I don't think the dress is too short, but would be flattering to take in the waist a fraction. Kind of defeats the cool wearing factor though.

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  6. I love the fabric! Such a fun print. The sage colored piping is perfect. I like it sans belt and I think the length is nice as is.

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  7. What a fabulous dress. I agree about the fabric being a fun print.

    Thank you so much for the tip about using china cord in piping. Piping is one thing I have never attempted and I going to use this stuff when I do try.

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  8. This dress is lovely and the colors really suit you. Definitely not too short. I like it without the belt. I was planning to put some piping on some clothes I am currently making so will use your tip on the cord. Thanks!

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  9. I love your dress - the colours are bright and happy and I think the length looks really good on you, but the piping makes it a definite winner to me :)

    It's great being able to share patterns with your sister - you instantly double your pattern stash!

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  10. Really fabulous dress Bernice. I think the length is perfect for such great pins. I like the piping a lot but have yet to try doing it.

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  11. It's a gorgeous dress! I particularly like the colors on you. I think I like it better without the belt, as it showcases the piping better. I like the idea for using rats tail - it would probably be softer.

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  12. Oh that's awesome, love the print and that's a very sexy style on you!

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  13. This is such a wonderful summer dress. Love the piping detail and the fabric. I think the length looks perfect and I like it best without the belt.

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  14. Those colours in that print, looks like it was made just for you! Very flattering. I love the lines of this dress - looks fab with a denim jacket too!

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