Monday, May 14, 2012

Burda 8087 - Denim Trousers

Burda 8087


So here we have the first pair of trousers I've ever sewn. After seeing these photos, I've decided they are a work in progress and will have to return to the sewing room. I initially ordered this fabric from Emma One Sock to sew a pair of jeans. On a arrival, however, I discovered the fabric had more stretch then I was wanting, so decided to make a pair of trousers instead. I'm not actually a big fan of stretch fabric for my bottoms halves - sure they're comfy, but not as flattering. Either way, I felt that trousers would be a better option than jeans.

I was actually aiming for something a bit chic like that seen in the photo below. Sadly, I haven't quite hit the mark.



I decided to try Burda 8087. I realise the above photo is a boot-cut and the photo below wide-leg however I was happy with either looks. I really like wide-legged pants and was happy to channel the look on the pattern cover. 

Well, the legs on the pants ended up RIDICULOUSLY ENORMOUS. Instead of channelling chic, I was channelling elephant girl. I have already removed a considerable amount of width from the legs both at the inner-seam and the side seam. Despite this, they are still heavy and shapeless. I also think they are making my thighs look wider than they are. I think I'll take them in through the thigh and see if that helps. 

I am also getting some creasing around the crotch area. (That said, on closer inspection of the RTW trousers above, there is also creasing - am I being too hard on myself?) The crotch area is also sitting a tad low. I think I'll have a go at fixing this up as well. 




Here is a shot of the welt pockets. Sadly, I forgot to baste the upper and lower sections together before adding the pocket bag. Consequently, they are quite open. Let's just call it a design feature. That aside, I followed a fabulous tutorial by The Fashion Incubator for creating the welt in the first place. She recommends making a simple paper jig to assist with the construction of the welt. It really was worth it and made the construction easy and precise.

As you can see, I struggled a but with the stretch in the fabric. It was hard to make seams sit flat as can be seen where the waistband meets the legs.


I copied the belt carriers from a pair of jeans sewn by Mary Nanna a few years ago. When I originally googled belt carriers these were the ones that caught my eye...so thank you Mary Nanna.

Due to the stretch of the denim, I faced the waistband with cotton lawn. I also felt I needed a waist-stay so sewed in a length of grosgrain ribbon between the waistband and facing.

I don't actually think the side view looks too bad. 

Overall, they're comfortable and stay up (which is a blessing, as much of what I wear constantly slips down). I will however have to play around with the shape of the legs if I'm going to be rally happy with them.

15 comments:

  1. Have you tried them on with heels? I find that wider legs often hang much better with heels so they don't get hung up and they look more flattering...I think heels, a belt and a tucked top will change the way they hang maybe and you may be more pleased. I quite like them. Nice work.

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  2. I really like those belt loops. I have never been happy with my own belt loops so I am in real admiration of these.

    Have you tried comparing the leg shape to some of your RTW trousers and jeans? Don't you have some wider leg Jag jeans? The fabric looks great and the construction very neat so it would be good to get a leg shape that you are happy with so that you wear these all the time. When I compare sewing patterns to RTW I find that the upper inside seam of the front leg (at the inner thigh) of RTW curves in a lot more than on sewing patterns. If you slim them from thigh to knee and then flare out again they would look more like your inspiration pair.

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  3. I like them - the belt loops and welt pockets are great. I think you are being a tad bit too hard on yourself re: the fit. But I do totally understand. I am incredibly picky with the fit and finish of clothes that I make, but not so much for any (if there are any) clothes that I buy. I think they are a great relaxed look. Perfect for school.

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  4. hey congrats on making trousers, i have yet to do this but i just got denim yesterday... i think you're right about the side view looking better, but it looks like the side seams are sticking out horizontally making your thighs look bigger form the front, i think you're decision about taking width out of the thigh is spot on. good luck!! i'll be following in your footsteps this week!

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  5. they look pretty darn good to me - I like them a lot. I am also impressed by your back welt pockets although I wasn't sure how you could baste them in such a way to keep them useable and closed - in RTW they often put a button and a loop to hold them closed.

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  6. Your trousers look fabulous, well done!
    Anne xx

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  7. They look great! Your construction is so neat, with all the little details! To look more like the inspiration pic, I think they need to be tighter through the thighs. That said, they look pretty good wide-legged to me!

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  8. Shame you're not completely satisfied as the detailing is really good. I've been scrutinising my store bought trousers before embarking on my search for the holy grail..no I mean the perfect trouser fit. I'm observing that while the fit across the bum and hips is good, they all have flaps of excess fabric on the thigh. Love you to share your solutions.

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  9. I think they look terrific, especially compared to my ugly first pair of trousers. I really love the welts and belt carriers. I think I will have to borrow this detail from Mary Nanna too.

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  10. Hey Bernice, I think you are being too hard on yourself. I think they look great especially the back. The belt loops are a great feature and very nicely executed I must say!

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  11. I think you are being pretty hard on yourself. I admire anyone who attempts pants, especially with the welts at the back.

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  12. I really like all the little details - the welt pockets and the belt loops especially. I tend to find that if I'm wearing wide leg pants I need to wear heels to help me look lean (or it could be that I'm addicted to heels). I think they look really good and very comfy but I'd probably reduce the width a little bit more if you're after a dressy look.

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  13. I think your new pants look fantastic. Love the belt loop detail and the welt pockets on the back. Beautiful job on construction!

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  14. These look fabulous! I'm impressed with the welt pockets. I'm not sure I've ever seen them not gape open a little unless they were buttoned.

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